If you brush your Doodle and the groomer still finds mats, it's not because you're not trying hard enough. It's that the brush you've been using never reached down to the undercoat, where the mats begin. That's a tool problem, not a you problem.
Owners tell us this all the time: they brush every single day and their Doodle still mats. You're almost certainly doing the work. The brush simply wasn't built for this kind of coat.
This guide walks you through exactly how to keep your Doodle tangle-free using the Doodle Brush Grooming System — the same routine Amy and Alastair use on Rolo, step by step.
First, Understand the Coat You're Working With
Doodle coats have two layers. There's the soft top coat you can see, and beneath it, sitting against the skin, the denser undercoat that you can't.
That hidden layer is where the trouble starts. Mats don't begin on top — they begin out of sight, down in the undercoat. By the time you can feel a mat on the surface, it's usually been forming underneath for a while.
Every tool in the system is built around this challenge.
Step 1: Start with the Tricky Spots — Not the Body
The instructions on the box tell you to start with the main body, then move on to the tricky, mat-prone spots. That's not wrong — it's what most people do. But we recommend doing the tricky spots first.
They're the highest-risk areas for tangles and mats, they need the most time — and they ask the most of your Doodle's patience. Better to tackle them before that patience starts running out.
There are five places that tangle the fastest on every Doodle:
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Behind the ears
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The collar line
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The legs
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The tail
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The armpits
If you've only got five minutes to brush, those five spots are exactly where to spend it. The longer you leave them, the harder the tangles are to work through.
The tool for the job: the Single Head Flexible Slicker. It's narrow, so it works into all those intricate little areas a wider brush simply can't reach. That single, slim head is what lets you get in behind the ears and into the armpits without fighting the tool.
Step 2: Move On to the Body
Once the tricky spots are done, move to the body — this is where most of the surface is.
The tool for the job: the Double Head Flexible Slicker. The two heads cover double the coat with each pass, so it cuts your brushing time in half. And the head is flexible — as you brush, it absorbs the resistance when it catches a tangle, instead of yanking through it.
That makes the whole session far more comfortable for your dog. And a comfortable dog sits still longer — which means you actually get the job done.
Step 3: Use the Line Brushing Technique
Here's the technique that makes the difference — it's called line brushing.
Part the coat in a clean horizontal line. Brush the section you've exposed. Then move up, part the next line, and work your way up in rows, adding a little more coat each time.
One thing on pressure: don't press hard. Let the brush do the work. You're guiding it through the coat, not forcing it — pressing down too firmly just drags on the skin and won't clear tangles any faster.
Worked this way, you reach right down to the skin where the mats form, rather than skating across the surface of the top coat. That's the difference between a coat that only looks tidy on top, and one that's truly tangle-free.
Step 4: Reach the Deeper Tangles
If the coat is very long or thick and there are deeper tangles that need a bit more brush power — don't brush or press harder. Switch tools instead.
The tool for the job: the Extra Long Pin Slicker. The clue's in the name: those extra-long pins are longer than the other brushes, so they reach the deeper tangles sitting right at the base of a heavy coat. Rolo, for example, always gets a few deeper tangles on her rump and thigh — so that's exactly where this brush earns its keep.
This brush has the maximum detangling power in the system. The flexible-head slickers remain the gentlest — most Doodles stand still longer for them. It really is a case of the right tool for the right job.
Step 5: Keep Your Brushes Clean as You Go
A quick tip mid-session: when a brush fills up with loose hair, take the Finishing Comb and run it through the pins to lift the hair straight out.
A clean brush grips the coat properly. A clogged one just slides over the top.
Step 6: Check Your Work with the Finishing Comb
The Finishing Comb isn't just for cleaning brushes — it's how you know you're actually done.
Once you've brushed the coat, run the comb through gently, from root to tip. If it glides through, the coat's tangle-free and you're finished. If it snags or catches, go back to that spot with the brush and line brush it again until it's clear.
Without the comb, you're just guessing.
The Payoff
Even five to ten minutes of good line brushing will do more for your Doodle than an hour of brushing across the surface.
Your groomer will feel the difference the moment they run their hand through your Doodle's coat — and honestly, so will your dog.
Each tool in the system is designed to do a different job. Together, they care for a whole Doodle coat from start to finish.
Stay Connected with Us:
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Follow our Doodle Brush Facebook Page for expert grooming tips, tutorials, and updates.
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Join The Tangle-Free Doodle Club, our private Facebook group for Doodle parents - share grooming stories, get tips, and take part in giveaways!
