Single Head vs Double Head Slicker Brush for Doodles: What's the Difference?

One is built for the tricky spots. The other for the main body. Here's how the Single Head and Double Head Flexible Slickers differ — and why most Doodle coats need both. 

Alastair McKinney

April 23, 2026·10 min read

Single Head vs Double Head Slicker Brush for Doodles: What's the Difference?

If you've been looking for the right brush for your Doodle, you've probably come across two tools: the single head flexible slicker and the double head flexible slicker. They look similar. Both are designed for Doodle coats. Both are part of the same grooming system.

But they do different jobs — and using the wrong one in the wrong zone is one of the quiet reasons home brushing doesn't prevent matting, even when you're being consistent. Here's what separates them, and when to reach for each.

Why Doodle coats change the brush conversation

A Doodle coat is curly, dense, and low-shedding. Dead hair doesn't fall away the way it does on other breeds — it stays trapped in the curl and compresses down into the undercoat, close to the skin. That's where Doodle matting starts, before anything shows on the surface.

On top of that, a Doodle body curves. The shoulders, ribs, hips, collar line, and back of the legs all have contours a flat, rigid brush can't follow — meaning the most mat-prone zones often get the least contact.

The Single Head Flexible Slicker and the Double Head Flexible Slicker are both built around these two realities. They just solve different parts of the problem.

The Single Head Flexible Slicker — built for the tricky spots

The Single Head is the smaller, more precise tool. It's designed to fit into the five high-risk matting zones on a Doodle:

  • Behind the ears
  • The collar area
  • The legs
  • The tail
  • The armpits

These zones share three things: they're small, they involve tight curves, and they experience friction. A wider slicker head can't fit cleanly into any of them — it overshoots or has to be held at an awkward angle. This is why most mats found at the groomer are clustered in exactly these five places.

The Single Head has a narrow brushing surface, a flexible head that stays in contact in tight spots, and super-rounded, highly polished pin tips that glide rather than catch. It's a step one tool — tricky spots get worked first, before the main body, when the dog is fresh and your patience is full.

The Double Head Flexible Slicker — built for the main body

The Double Head is the main-body tool. It's designed for the wider, flatter areas of a Doodle's coat: the back, shoulders, sides, chest, and flanks.

The name describes the design. The brushing surface is split into two independently moving sections. As the brush passes across the body, each half adjusts to the contour separately — so the brush stays in full contact through the curves of the ribcage, hip, and shoulder, rather than lifting off at the high points.

A fixed-head slicker placed across a Doodle's ribs makes solid contact in the centre and lifts off at the edges. The double head stays in contact across the full width. It's the solution to a specific physical problem — the feeling that you've brushed a whole area but the coat still feels dense when the finishing comb runs through it. Usually that's because the outer edges of every stroke never made full contact.

The Double Head also uses longer pins than a typical standard slicker, reaching past the surface of the curl into the mid-layer of the coat. It's a step two tool — used on the main body after the Single Head has cleared the tricky spots.

Side-by-side: the key differences

Head size

  • Single Head: narrow — designed to fit into tight zones.
  • Double Head: wider — designed for broader main-body coverage.

Flexibility

  • Single Head: one flexible head.
  • Double Head: two independently flexing sections for full contact across curves.

Pins

  • Both: rigid pins with super-rounded, highly polished tips. Note: it's the head that flexes, not the pins — flexible pins would be a failure mode, not a feature.
  • Double Head has longer pins to reach past the surface of the curl.

Where each one works best

  • Single Head: behind the ears, collar, armpits, legs, tail.
  • Double Head: the main body — back, shoulders, sides, chest, flanks.

Position in the routine

  • Single Head: step one. Tricky spots first.
  • Double Head: step two. Main body, after the tricky spots are clear.

What happens if you only use one

Using only the Single Head means the tricky spots are well-maintained, but main-body sessions take much longer than they should — you're doing broad-coverage work with a precision tool.

Using only the Double Head means the main body is well-maintained, but matting continues to form in the armpits, behind the ears, and around the collar — because the wider head can't reach into those zones with full contact.

Most Doodle coats are best served by using both, because they solve different parts of the same problem. The tricky spots need precision; the main body needs coverage. One brush can't do both without trade-offs.

Where each brush sits in the correct Doodle grooming order

The order matters as much as the brush choice. A well-built home routine looks like this:

Step 1 — Single Head Flexible Slicker on the tricky spots.

Step 2 — Double Head Flexible Slicker on the main body.

Step 3 (optional) — Extra Long Pin Slicker for longer, thicker, or denser coats, and for brush-sensitive dogs who find standard slickers too much.

Step 4 — Finishing Comb as a check after brushing. Root to tip, every zone. If it glides, you're done. If it catches, that's where to go back. The Finishing Comb is a check tool, not a detangling tool.

Frequently asked questions

Which is better — Single Head or Double Head?

Neither. They're built for different zones. Most Doodle coats need both.

Can I use just the Double Head and skip the Single Head?

You can, but matting will almost certainly continue to form in the tricky spots — behind the ears, collar, armpits — because the Double Head can't fit cleanly into those zones.

Do the pins flex?

No. The pins are rigid, with super-rounded, highly polished tips. It's the brush head that flexes. Rigid pins are what reach the coat reliably; a flexible head is what keeps the brush in contact with the body through the curves.

Will these brushes scratch my Doodle?

The super-rounded, highly polished pin tips are designed to glide rather than catch. For brush-sensitive dogs with bad past experiences, the Extra Long Pin Slicker is often the gentlest option — the longer pins do the reach work rather than pressure.

How often should I use each brush?

Both are part of the same session, used in order — Single Head first, Double Head second — three times a week, around five minutes. Consistency beats intensity.

The difference, in one line

The Single Head Flexible Slicker is built for the tricky spots. The Double Head Flexible Slicker is built for the main body. Both use the same flexible-head design. Both use the same rigid, super-rounded, highly polished pin tips. They sit in different steps of the same Doodle grooming routine — which is why they work best together rather than as alternatives.

What matters more than which brush you start with is understanding which zones on your Doodle's body need which tool — and using them in the order that makes Doodle coat structure work with you instead of against you. 🐾

👉 Learn more in our Doodle Grooming Guide


🎁 Explore our best-selling Doodle Brush tools 

Stay Connected with Us:

👉  Follow our Doodle Brush Facebook for expert grooming tips, tutorials, and updates.

👉 Join the Tangle-Free Doodle Club, our private facebook group for Doodle parents — share grooming stories, get tips, and take part in monthly giveaways!

Back to Coat Care Hub